Final Project
Proposal
Description
My plan is to build a small 20 count humidor where I can
place my special sticks away from the larger majority. This project will be a
little bit more detailed than a typical theater project from a close up view.
My dimensions I plan to use will be 9" x 8" x 4." This will be a
decent sized box to allow two rows of 10 cigars and the 8" is long enough
to accommodate the largest standard 6" cigar.
Materials/Cut List
The exterior box can be made of any type of hardwood so the
highest quality white birch wood should make for an aesthetically pleasing
visual appeal. The lid top will be made of MDF because it is heavier and will
feel better opening and closing the top of the box. Although, I might go with
birch just to keep it all the same, especially if the color would be a little
different. Below is a list of the actual cuts I have calculated out for the
box. I decided to make the height 4” to give myself room for the layering of
the wood that will add up. I will need room to put the interior sides of Spanish
cedar in and 2 ¼” height wasn’t cutting it.
A/A Birch exterior
- Short sides (2x) 9/16” x 4” x 8”
- Long Sides (2x) 9/16” x 4” x 9”
- Bottom (1x) ¼” x 8” x 9”
MDF exterior
- Top (1x) ½” x 8” x 9”
Spanish cedar interior
- Top/Bottom (2x) 3/16” x 6 7/8” x 7 7/8”
- Short Sides (2x) 3/16” x 2 10/16” x 6 7/8”
- Long Sides (2x) 3/16” x 2 10/16” x 7 7/8”
Construction Methods
Most likely, the first step will be trimming the stock
pieces of birch and cedar to their correct thicknesses since Woodcraft seems to
carry only particular sizes. Once this is done, I will use the dado blade, to
cut clean rabbets into the long edges of the stock cedar ½” wide and 5/16”
deep. Then I will make the appropriate length cuts on the power miter saw for
all 4 sides and cut rabbets 9/16” wide and 5/16” deep on the two short sides to
make the snug corner joints. To ensure the joints are almost perfect, I will
dry clamp the MDF top, bottom, and sides together and trim as needed. Gorilla
glue will be used to seal the pieces together and I will let this sit for at
least a day or two clamped together. After the glue dries, the box will be cut
with the band saw to make a 1 ¼” thick lid. At this point, the Spanish cedar
inner lining will be cut to the appropriate length (it should already be at the
correct thickness) and the bottom will be placed first, followed by long sides
and short sides respectively. Importantly, the sides of the Spanish cedar
should overlay about 3/16” above the bottom portion of the box. The top piece
of cedar can also be placed in the lid. I will not put sides in the lid since
the height of my box will only be 4” but I expect it to look something like
Figure 1. One single strip of glue in the middle of each cedar piece should
hold everything together and I will leave a 3/16” gap between the lid and sides
to allow for expanding of the cedar. Next, I will make a tight seal by cutting
a steep bevel on the cedar lining in the bottom portion of the box. The front will
need a steeper bevel than the sides and the back. I will attach a brass
quadrant hinge on both back sides of the box to attach the lid. Unfortunately,
I don’t think I will have time to sand the outside and apply coats of gloss
lacquer to make the finish look nicer but I can always do this at home.
Sketches/Drawings
Figure 1 clearly shows that the bottom is
placed first, followed by the long sides and the short sides. Notice the
overlay in the bottom portion of the box. I plan to also just use a roof as
shown in the lid. Figure 2 shows an example of the exterior portion of the box.
Take notice of the rabbet cuts in the sides to form the joints. Figure 3 is
shown to give a second idea of how the interior cedar lays in the exterior box.
I do plan to use the hinges but none of the edge banding will be performed nor
a lock and key installation.
| Production Schedule | |||
Thanksgiving break:
I want to take time and really go over the calculations and visit some
specialty wood shops to look around and make an actual list of stock material
and their dimensions
Week of the 30th:
Begin sketchup drafting with the information I gathered from talking to people
at specialty woodcraft stores. Finish this by the end of the week and get
materials bought over the weekend.
Week of the 7th:
Begin thinning the wood to the correct thickness, cutting lengths, and rabbet
cutting. By the end of the week, the exterior box should be built, glued, and
let sit over the weekend.
Week of the 14th:
Band cut the box open and cut the Spanish cedar and lay them in. After they dry
for a day with glue, bevel cut the edges and by midweek (Wednesday 16th)
I should be able to put the hinges on and complete the project.
Materials and Tools
- A/A white birch
- Spanish cedar
- MDF
- Gorilla glue
- Quadrant hinge (2x) and drill
- Power miter saw
- Table saw (with dado blade)
- Whatever power tool used to plane wood to the correct thickness
- Clamps
Stock Order/Price
List
A/A White Birch
- $24.97 → ¾” x 2’ x 4’ (1x)
o
Home Depot
o
Not sold in stores but says “high quality”
o
If I decide to use birch instead of MDF for the
top, I will still have enough length
MDF
- $9.95 → ½” x 2” x 4” (1x)
o
Home Depot
o
I wouldn’t need nearly this much but it would be
for the lid
o
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4ft-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-1508108/202089097
Spanish Cedar
- $10.99 → ¼” x 4” x 36” (2x)
o
Woodcraft
o
Because the depth of the box will be 8”, I will
need to place 2 pieces of 4” wood
together for the top and bottom. I don’t think
a biscuit cut will work because of the thickness of the wood so maybe just
laying them in separately and gluing will be okay. This is something I will ask
someone at Woodcraft 
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